Increased Political Instability

A couple of days ago the opposition party in Bangladesh announced that countrywide grand rallies (demonstrations) will be held on October 25, since this day according to the constitution of Bangladesh should be the last day of the current government. It is today exactly three months until election day and this period is supposed to be neutral in terms of a non-partisan caretaker government system. The problem is however that the government is using its 'current power' to also prolong it, during this 'neutral period'. 

Hence, to counter the current threat of the opposition party, the government has decided that the session of current parliament will continue until November 7th. This trigger of course the fear of violence, and the opposition party has now urged their supporters to take the streets today, and days to come. The oppostion party has also called for a 3 day long 'Hartal' (Strike/Shutdown) - giving the government a three-day ultimatum to respect this neutral election-time. 

Due this increased political instability (which I have been aware of would most likely take place at this date and for the coming period) - the 'Field Study' time is thus finished. I was recommended by the Swedish Embassy and also by the native people that's been around me, to try to finish the study before this time. For safety reasons.  

The political tension is actually something that's been a concern 'in my periphery' the whole time. As I mentioned last time, this year has been characterized by political instability, riots and violent demonstrations. During my first days in Dhaka we accidently ended up being totally stuck in a chaotic traffic jam, sirens were screaming, and all of a sudden demonstrants came running both in front and back of our car. A so called 'meeting' (demonstration) had spontaneously been annonced to take place just a few blocks away from where we were. One day in Khulna, we could not go out to a village, due to a political demonstration in the city. So, it's been there - the political tension - througout my time. Bangladesh is a developing country - hence, you are most likely exposed to increased risks. One should be aware of that. But despite this political tension I feel we have conducted the field work in best possible way. We have been able to work relatively 'undisturbed' by the political tension and the collected data/information from the field I believe will be enough to complete my study.  

So - I am back home in Sweden. I landed in the 'colourful fall of Sweden' yesterday afternoon. It feels wonderful to reunite with family, but the feelings are mixed. I can not stop thinking of the people in Bangladesh who I left and who have to face all these risks (i.e. their reality): political instability/violence, natural disasters, poisoning catastrophes...and of course, deep poverty). Risks and a reality I just left, just like that? All of a sudden, back in Sweden, where everything is so organized, so safe and so...little people? I am currently in Upplands Väsby - and a man or a woman from Bangladesh would definitely think that this was some kind of Ghost Town as the cars on the road are so few, and you hardly see any people as you are driving in the town (in comparison to Bangladesh).

Not many sunshine stories have I shared with you I realise, from my time in Bangladesh. They might have been overshadowed by the bad stories. There are however, many beautiful and precious moments I will remember forever. Special moments. Memorable meetings. The common people of Bangladesh, whom most were so genuine, so friendly and extremely hospitable, with respect to what they could offer. I was so moved by this and I hope we will manage to stay in contact, the men and women I was honored to get to know.  

Kram från en hemkommen Louise.  

From Daily Star today (www.thedailystar.net) 

All pictures are from Daily Star.

Published: Friday, October 25, 2013

People’s nerves on edge

Wasim Bin Habib

Considerably fewer vehicles were seen on the streets of the capital yesterday as many city dwellers stayed indoors fearing violence and torching of vehicles ahead of the 18-party opposition alliance rally in the capital today. The photo of the roundabout was taken at the eastern end of Manik Mia Avenue. Photo: Star

Memorable Meetings

Three weeks have passed in the 'Country of Bengal'. The country that some people may say is the 'Forgotten Country' due to its unfortunate preconditions. In terms of geography, Bangladesh is a low-land with a delta of rivers. Hence, the country is vulnerable to floodings and cyclones. The geographical location of Bangladesh implies both annual monsoons and cyclones - which then obviously leaves deep traces of devastation. 

As already mentioned, poverty is deep and widespread. Bangladeshi workers are paid the world's lowest wages (which is why people from Bangladesh represent a large group of guest workers in the world, for example in Dubai. It is a livelihood strategy. A few years work abroad imply a secured future economy of the whole family including relatives. Once back again, they are perceived as heroes).   

After only 40 years of independence, Bangladesh is still in the transformation I believe in becoming a real democracy, since it is currently dysfunctional, in terms of corruption. The methods which are used by ruling party and opposition party in order to still have the power or to get the power are by no means democratic. Thus, the political situation in the country is unstable and tense. This year, political tensions have even spilled over into violence. It's been a year characterized by riots, violent public gatherings/demonstrations and strikes. Many people have died. And the political tension will most likely increase as the next coming election will be held in only three months (January 2014).

But despite corruption and an overall low score in the Human Rights Record other Development Indicators have in fact improved significantly during the last decades. Particularly within the sectors of education and health. 

I don't know how I slipped into 'overall country situation' - Anyhow, I am doing fine, although I miss my near ones of course. I am actually back shortly in Dhaka. The reason is these days celebration of 'Eid al Adha' (muslim festival/holidays) and Shimul (friend and driver) obviously wanted to reunite with his family in Dhaka on this occassion.  

Field work so far

The time so far in the field has been quite an 'earth shattering' experience. To hear about stories, poverty and misery on TV is one thing but to be face-to-face and eye-to-eye actually communicating with the people who live right in it - quite throws you over. So real, it's like a face slam. You can not turn off the TV. You are there, right in it, interacting with the people. Hearing their stories. Wathing their expressions. Noticing their eyes. Blank eyes often of no sparkle, no hope. One of the groups I wanted to target for my studie were young unmarried women. When asking them about their future dreams they answered: "...we can not dream, the future is deemed for us, a woman in this country has to tolerate everything, not least the man who  is chosen for us...". The answer luckily tended to change as the economic situation was just slightly better and the girls could go to school. Then the common answer was dreams of higher education. Good sign. 

Access to Safe Water - Arsenic Situation

The arsenic contamination was indeed widespread in the villages. In one village, almost everybody was affected to some extent. That village had no public safe water tubewell installed at all. All the other villages had since only a few years ago, 2-3 public safe water tubewells (arsenic free) installed in the center of the village or just outside. To alert people to arsenic, tubewells provding safe water have been painted green and tubewells providing unsafe water, red. Many of the households had in fact their own private tubewell - but almost all of these have been found containing high levels of arsenic, why they are now almost all painted red. Having a private tubewell located within the 'Bari' (garden) is of course convenient, but most importantly it implies social security for the women. Household structures are extremely hierarchal in rural Bangladesh. Since fetching water is defined as a domestic (household) responsibility, fetching water is exclusively procured by women, and especially younger women. Women's mobility is restricted. When walking outside of the Bari, and in the village, women are exposed to a social risk (e.g. harrasments/sexual assaults). It's also a matter of family honor, not putting women of the family at this risk. Thus, women mostly stay within the Bari at all times (although it should be clarified that women in villages 'better off', could move more freely, thus being able to fetch safe water from further distance). Ever since arsenic were found in almost all of the private owned tubewells, a difficult dilemma are now faced by the poorest households and women: Fetching safe water from further distance, outside of the Bari at a socially dangerous risk - or to fetch unsafe water from private owned tubewell at a risk of being arsenic contaminated. Since the effects/symptoms of arsenic poisoning are not immediate (it can take several years) most familys continue to fetch unsafe water from their own arsenic contaminated tubewell. Hence, a slow mass-poisoning of millions is taking place in rural Bangladesh, right now. 

Despite strong emotional, and sometimes also physical hardships, visiting the people in the arsenic acute villages, we visited more villages than planned. Instead of three villages, we visited six. Taking into account that this was achieved by spending 4 - 6 hours in a car everyday, due to bad road conditions, these were some exhausting days for all of us. 

Reflections so far: It's been a worthwhile experience. Even though being in a position, coming from 'West', thus painfully aware of the differences between our 'two worlds'. I was also nervous about how I was going to be 'perceived' by the people in the villages, because of the above. Although a lot of people thought I was a doctor and could cure them, I was treated beautifully. With a minimum of resources they did all they could to serve me well, which made me feel bad. They sure did not have to. I was just happy if they would give some of their time to let me ask some questions. For example, they were very eager to let me sit on the most comfortable place, in one village they were even trying to get ahold of a fan in the village, so that they could place it where I was sitting. I was so moved by their eager to make me feel welcome. My arrivals in the villages created small gatherings of curious village people. In my mind I had pictured me, my translator and the one or the ones I was going to interview, for ourselves behind closed doors. Impossible. Since most houses did not even have doors. We ended up often sitting upon the porch of the houses, with a crowd of curious people standing around us - often even participating in the discussion. 'Adapt to sudden unforeseen situations' very much characterized my time out in the field. That, and...memorable meetings.

আলিঙ্গন, Louise 

    

        People of Kolarua (Koyla)

       People of Kirsnokhati (Tala)

 

        Children of Koyla

  

       People of Bishnopura (Sagoodhari)

   

Woman of Kirsnokhati, fetching water in a pitcher. This village was 'better off' compared to the other villages. Fewer inhabitants. Women here were not afraid.

 

Man of Kirsnokhati drinking water from safe water tubewell.

      

     

 View from where I was sitting on the porch having the interview (Kolarua)

      

Perhaps the worst off village, Ghona (Jessore), no safe water tubewell and almost everybody were affected to some extent. 

      

15 year old girl arsenic contaminated. One of the first symptoms are severe skin leisures.  

Male arsenic contaminated patient sitting on his porch. In front of him, translator Nusrat.

     

  Severe skin leisures caused by arsenic.

Corruption exists at all levels in Bangladesh. We passed this sign on our way to one of the villages, I became curious and wanted to visit this place. The mistress of this place did not want to answer simple questions regarding their organisation and their fulfullings, she almost pushed us away clearly uncomfortable as if she was conceiling something.  

   Our transportation in Kirsnokhati (Tala)

A very nice meeting at Uttaran (public help organization) who was supporting us in Tala

       Young girls in Kolarua (13 - 19 years old)

 

I was invited for dinner to these nice people in Dhaka for Eid-Al-Ahad. Nice evening. 

Unexpected Obstacles

"The path to our destination is not always a straight one..." 

Word.   ;-)

Problem solved.

Severe flooding occur in Bangladesh each year. (...yes, we made it over).

These guys were not in a hurry, haha. 'Pleasant Roadblocks'.

কেমন আছেন!

কেমন আছেন! = Hello 

(I am slowly learning Bengali, or you can also just copy and paste)

So, I have arrived safe and sound in Dhaka. I have been here four days and everything has gone well so far. I am being very well taken care of, thanks to the amazing team of Viola Vitalis and principally Dr. Kader Abdul. Also thanks to Professor Yousuf from Khulna University who I met yesterday and who has shared with me bright ideas regarding the design of the actual work out in the field - knows what is possible and what is not. Monday morning I will go to Khulna, in the southern area of Bangladesh. From Khulna I will do daily back-and-forth trips out in the field. I will visit 2-3 arsenic acute locations/villages during my stay in Khulna. With me in the field I will have a translator, a driver and one extra assistant. I had actually the pleasure to meet this whole crew yesterday, and they are great. We'll make a good team! 

Impressions so far in Dhaka. It's hot. It's humid. And there are a LOT of people. Everywhere. Sometimes even sitting on the rooftops of the cars. Electricity is down now and then, but so far only for short periods of time. Water from tap is not always transparent. The basics of life we take for granted, are certainly not obvious here. Trafic is crazy. Among all risks, I'd say trafic is the most dangerous one. There are often no lines to follow and it seems like the 'Law of the Jungle' is the only law applied. Lastly but not least, there is poverty. Beggars in the street, many of them children. This is the hardest part. Poverty physically touches you upon your skin as you are walking in the streets and of course, affects you mentally. Helplessness. Frustration. But in spite of tough, tough circumstances, people are extremely nice and friendly. It's quite amazing. 

Today I will visit the Swedish Embassy. Then it's time to pack the bag again - this time for Khulna and for the actual field work. On our way down to Khulna we will pass through an area of mangrove forests, which apparently is the home of The Royal Bengal Tiger. I might stay in the car. 

Kram, Louise

Dhaka traffic...

Taxis in Dhaka = Rikshas (impressed by the guys driving them)

More Rikshas 

Women's dresses (called Saris) are so beautiful, elegant and colorful. 

Man selling coconuts. We bought one from this man. Drank the coconut water. Simply fond of coconuts! :) 

Man on a Riksha

"Friday is a day off in Bangladesh, therefore it's a good day for a tour in the city, traffic is calm" driver Shimul says...

Meeting in the office of Viola Vitalis. Professor Yousuf to the very right, left of him, the assistant in the field, Mr. Mijam, then, driver Mr. Shimul and to the very left, Dr. Salam, operating manager of Viola Vitalis. A newly graduated girl (mechanical engineer) from Khulna University, Ms. Nusrat, is going to be  my translator in the field. 

Ready to go!

Hej!

I am indecisive in what language to use, so this first time, I use both English and Swedish. I might not be very active in this blog due to potentially bad internet accessibility but my hope is to at least publish a few pictures and some lines about my experiences during my field study in Bangladesh. 

Genom SU och Sida kommer jag under två månader (6-8 veckor) genomföra en fältstudie i Bangladesh med anledning av den arsenikförgiftningskatastrof som där pågår. Närmare 77 miljoner människor i Bangladesh exponeras av giftiga halter arsenik i dricksvattnet. Värst är situationen på landsbygden. WHO har i ett uttalande kallat exponeringen för "historiens största massförgiftning". Bakgrunden är att grundvattenbrunnar grävts i syfte att undvika risken av vattenburna sjukdomar från förorenat ytvatten. Det man inte räknade med var att höga halter naturligt förekommande arsenik i berggrunden skulle sippra ut i dessa brunnar, som än idag fungerar som vattentäkt, varifrån man hämtar dricksvatten. Att drabbas av arsenikförgiftning är förstås allvarligt och påverkar många organ i kroppen (cancer och leversjukdomar är vanligt förekommande), framförallt gäller detta i ett land där fattigdom och därmed näringsbrist (försvagat  immunförsvar) är ett faktum.  

A severe drinking water crisis is currently being faced by rural Bangladesh. Millions of rural citizens lack access to safe potable water. This is due to groundwater sources contaminated by naturally occuring arsenic. Severe health problems are often correlated with long term exposure to arsenic, such as cancer and liver disease. I will now via Sida and Stockholm University conduct a field study in Bangladesh with regards to the arsenic crisis and the access to safe water. 

Det här med att blogga är nytt för mig och jag känner mig lite som gammelmormor vad gäller att förstå och använda sig av tekniken på det mest optimala sättet. Jag hoppas i alla fall att jag ska kunna få till ett par inlägg under min vistelse, dels för mina nära och kära, men även för att det såklart kan vara intressant och för att det känns viktigt att öka en allmän medvetenhet om arsenikförgiftningskatastrofen. Det är först på senare tid som situationen i Bangladesh uppmärksammats i media, men fortfarande råder en förvånansvärt liten medvetenhet om problemet. 

Nu bär det iväg. 

Kram, Louise